Photography: Kourosh Keshiri

bijan:

“...I have made 4 billion dollars, with the name of Bijan.”

~by Susan Michals

Bijan is a man who creates some of the most expensive designs and accessories in the world, yet behind it all, he is a rather simple, straightforward man. He has built a multi-billion dollar empire and everything that money can buy, but for Bijan, the greatest pleasures in life come from three things: family, friends, and color.

Entering his flagship store, replete with some of the most expensive items in the world and complimented by his yellow Rolls Royce parked right outside, is a bit overwhelming at first. Granted, this writer spent many years working at Bergdorf Goodman Men in New York, where made-to-measure suits could run into the five figures, but this is a completely different ballgame — and with Bijan designing it, you can bet that the uniforms are lined with mink. At Bijan on Rodeo, I find hand-stitched cashmere, kangaroo leather, and supple suede that can only be supplanted by the softness of a baby’s skin. I also find that designs are divided by color as blocks of vibrant yellows, subtle pinks, and purples with pouncing panache, leap out at me.

Then I notice that there are no customers. No, I haven’t arrived on a slow day. This is a mandate; from day one, the door has always been locked, and all sales are by appointment only. “I did it because of my ego,” gushes the designer. “My clients are so powerful, they deserve to be taken care of by appointment only; they love it. As much as I love attention to detail, they love the attention they get when they visit me.” Rightly so, as a client could easily come in and drop $250,000 in an afternoon.

Bijan studied fashion design and textiles in Switzerland and Italy in the 1960’s before heading back to his native Iran in the early 70’s. There he designed clothes for the Royal Family, including the Shah of Iran, the Prime Minister, and the jet setters in the Middle East. “Those days were magnificent,” he says, “but not big enough for me to introduce myself to the world the way I wanted to. So I came to America. America made me the person who I am, and allowed me to establish myself my own way.” He opened his first store on Rodeo Drive, (the same one we’re in now) which has been a mainstay in Beverly Hills for nearly 35 years. He has dressed some of the most powerful men in the world, including the Sultan of Brunei, the Emperor of Japan, and virtually every U.S. President for the last thirty years. He shows me a series of beautiful ties, each monogrammed for the owner and numbered 1/1; that means there will never ever be another one like it. “Look at the initials — do you recognize the name?” Of course I do. The ties are for one of our presidents.

Bijan admits, “I am not for every man, I am for some men”. Fortunately for Bijan, the men in the exclusive group for whom he designs, numbering in the realm of 46,000 strong, a few thousand of which are willing to pay any price for his collections.

 For most people that number would be something to be very proud of, but for Bijan, it’s not necessarily a matter of pride. It’s more about love.

"I love that I have made 4 billion dollars with the name of Bijan. I love that in 66 countries my perfume is sold. I love that so many men worldwide appreciate the quality of my designs-and that 6 to 7 million ladies in the world buy my perfume. Not proud, but I love it!"

 Among the ladies that have worn his signature fragrance are American icons Nancy Reagan and Jackie O. “One day Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis complimented me when I was walking down Fifth Avenue near Central Park. ‘Smell, Bijan, I’m  wearing your perfume.’ This is the American queen using my perfume!” When he mentions Mrs. Reagan, a woman he deeply admires, he also mentions that, “I designed a jean jacket lined in mink for her husband, for President Reagan to wear when they would go riding at their ranch. I never forget these privileged moments.”

 He has built an empire based on the simple principle of exclusivity, swathed in sophistication. Do you want the best, one-of-a-kind item? You’re going to have to pay for it. Needless to say, the recent turn of financial events hasn’t had an impact on his business. “I’m almost embarrassed to say, but 2008 was the best year we’ve had in 35 years.”

The people Bijan has known throughout his lifetime are also a mainstay of his store. From top to bottom, nearly every shelf is lined with photos of his famous friends, including everyone from Bill Clinton, and especially Bijan’s friends, the Bush family, to the Prince of Wales. He is a collector of sorts; of fond memories, fabulous experiences, and warm wishes. This is what he thrives upon: these wonderful people he has had the pleasure to meet and work with — those who he has dressed magnificently, and who keep coming back for more. Yet the one facet of Bijan that makes him most ebullient is that of his role as father. As we wrap our conversation, his son Nicolas comes in. In his spare time, he interns with his dad, and is an “A” student, and of course, is dressed in a glorious Bijan suit, despite being only 18 years old. They exchange greetings and kisses and you can see that family — not the empire — is the love of Bijan’s life. Nicolas says his goodbyes too quickly for his dad; you can see the man yearns to have his son stay just a little bit longer, but a teenager is a teenager.

 Our time is nearly up, so I ask the final question; one that he takes a moment or two to mull over. What would Bijan say about Bijan?

 “I am the humblest and simplest of men. I love to go home, see my girlfriend, and play with my dogs. I love people. I love color. I love women. I love details. Maybe my sickness is… I’m too perfect… that I love perfection. In the meantime, I am here, and I work hard. Bijan, is, a man who likes to do things differently — in the most chic way.”

Knowing Bijan is loving him. You just have to get an appointment first.

"The world said to conform, the world said to settle for less..The world said compromise, And no one will know...So I made my own."